Ecuador

Montecristi: the land of the ‘Panama Hat’

April 25, 2020

Despite being such a famous and elegant hat, its origin was unknown. I mistakenly came to think that it was from Panama and probably many people do not know its real origin. It was not until I visited my dear friend from Manta in the province of Manabí (Ecuador), that she took me to visit Montecristi, the place where the Panama hat is handmade.

Montecristi is a small place but with enough history that it even became the capital of Manabí. Located just 15 minutes from Manta (later on I will talk more about this place), where I was lucky enough to be accompanied by my friend Susana, since she not only took me to the hat shops, but also made me start learning a little history at the Ciudad Alfaro Civic Center to better understand the importance of Montecristi and Manabí in general.

In very broad terms, in this museum you learn about General Eloy Alfaro, who was president of the country and introduced very important educational and liberal reforms; he separated the church from the state, fought for gender equality and continued the construction of the Transandino Railway, among other things that I have surely forgotten.

With my friend Susana outside of the Ciudad Alfaro Civic Center. Photo © Patrick Mreyen

It was a fairly important liberal revolution, which developed from the end of the XIX century -with the uprisings- until the beginning of the XX century with its mandates. In fact, right here you can visit the mausoleum where the remains of the General rest, who was finally terribly murdered.

Mausoleo Memorial General Eloy Alfaro. Photo © Patrick Mreyen

The famous toquilla straw hat

Imagine the importance of the toquilla straw hat that even has its Denomination of Origin and since 2012 was named Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. Its fabric is so fine, made with the fibers of the toquilla palm -which grows on the Ecuadorian coast- that you can pay up to $30,000 -or more- for a hat.

Panama hats at a store in Montecristi. Photo © Silvia Lucero

The finer the braid, the more expensive the hat will be. An exquisite work done by artisans from the towns of Manabí, who take weeks to months to produce a single hat and which have been seen carried elegantly by leaders and celebrities.

The finer the fabric, the more expensive the hat. Photo © Silvia Lucero

But why do they call it Panama Hat?

Supposedly, it has to do with the construction of the Panama Canal, since at that time, they exported hats for some 50,000 workers to protect them from the sun. US President Theodore Roosevelt also used one for the inauguration of the channel. But although nowadays several towns in Manabí are disputing to be the cradle of the hat, the truth is that it is 100% Ecuadorian.

Photo © Silvia Lucero

I only got to know Montecristo, not Pile or Cuenca, that is why I focused only on this city and because I found its museum very interesting. The stores we entered were very friendly and took the time to explain and show us different hats so that we could see the difference in the fabric, which totally influences the production time and price.

Montecristi, Ecuador. Photo © Silvia Lucero

Where to stay when visiting Montecristi?

I stayed in the city of Manta mainly because of my friend, but I would also recommend it, because Manta has a beach and you eat delicious, since it is considered the world capital of tuna. My friend also took me to eat a delicious ceviche (to which they curiously add peanuts) and where we also tried fabulous fresh fish. This is the advantage of visiting places in the company of local people, because they take you to their favorite places and show you the authentic.

I don’t go into detail with Ecuadorian chocolate, because this is a surprise that I have for another post that I will publish later and that will be told by Susana herself, founder of Cárdenas Chocolate.

Trying the famous hats. Photo © Patrick Mreyen

If you want me to design and organize your trip to Ecuador 100% customized through our travel agency Tripdreaming, please contact me at silvia.lucero@tripdreaming.com, to plan this dream trip.

For editorial questions, please contact me at silvia.lucero@latrotamundos.com.